Torque Convertor Installation

How to install your new converter by Rezlo.Installing a torque converter is in no way a difficult task with some help, but
just a warning, you need to be familiar with basic mechanics/wrenching to
undertake this, the nice part about this install is that there is in reality
very little you can really do wrong or brake if you follow my instructions and a
aid of a service manual or similar, just take it slowly and don’t rush, should
you get into a bind seek assistance of a mechanic or email me and I will reply
as soon as possible.  The reason I enjoy prompting people to perform this
themselves is that it tends to take the fear of “I don’t want to brake anything”
away from people that do have mechanical talent and just to scared to use it.
This is a basic list of items you will need:

Assortment of wrenches

Assortment of sockets

Hammer and pry-bar

Jack stands

Jack

ATF “Automatic Transmission Fluid” (I always use OEM  trans fluids)

2X Friends

Case of beer (for afterwards)
One free Saturday or Sunday

First thing I would do is take your car off to a car wash with 2 cans of
engine cleaner and really clean the engine and trans off as working on a dirty
car is never much fun, Once you have it cleaned off check for any obvious leaks
that could be fixed during your converter swap and follow the below listed
steps. Please if you have a FSM or Haynes or similar manual for your vehicle
read their steps as well before beginning to help decide if you are up to the
challenge.

  • Chalk the rear wheels so the vehicle cant move and crack
    the front wheel studs loose

  • Jack the front up as high as needed so you can move
    around under the vehicle while on stands. (ALWAYS USE STANDS)

  • Disconnect Battery and mark all electrical and trans oil
    lines on the transmission and remove them

  • Disconnect shifter cable

  • Place a support under the engine’s oil pan with a block
    of wood as not to damage it.

  • Take the wheel closest to the trans off, disconnect the
    lower control arm at the knuckle (pop the lower ball joint)

  • Carefully pry the drive shaft out the trans, let it hang
    suspended with wire or straps (dont dislocate the CV joints)

  • Unbolt the trans inspection cover underneath, then unbolt
    the converter off the flex plate (normally 4 bolts, use a power bar on the
    crank pulley to gently turn the motor to gain access to the other flex plate
    bolts) note the converter to flex plate clearance once the converter is
    totally unbolted and pushed back towards the trans (new one should be similar
    with between 1/8-1/2″ clearance before you slide it up to bolt it on)

  • Unbolt all but 4 of the trans to engine bolts,

  • Crack loose but do not undo the last 4 bolts

  • Place the Jack with a block of wood under the trans

  • Make sure the engine is still supported on its oil pan

  • Unbolt the engine mount holding the trans to the frame

  • Undo the last 4 trans to engine bolts

  • Carefully pry the other drive shaft out of the trans as
    you move it away

  • Move the trans far enough away from the engine then let
    it down slow

  • Once down get your new converter out of its box and
    remove the plastic cap

  • Pour 1 to 2 quarts of oil into the new converter

  • Slide old converter off trans

  • Compare new and old converter, they should look near
    identical

  • Make sure there are no oil leaks from the trans seal and
    rear main seal, if there are replace the seal/s

  • Slide new converter onto trans and make sure it seats all
    the way in like the old unit, may take an attempt or two or turning the
    converter while applying light pressure

  • DO NOT FORCE THE CONVERTER ON OR HIT IT

  • The rest is a simple reverse of what was just said.

 Note: 

  • If your converter comes with new high-tensile bolts (most
    do)  DO NOT add lock-tite to the bolts as they already have a special lock-tite
    coating applied to them.

  • If your converter should not come with new bolts make
    sure the new bolts are not to long as it can destroy the converter they are.

  • Make sure to use a Service manual for correct torque
    specifications of all bolts including flex plate.

  • When first starting vehicle make sure to check the ATF
    fluid level and check it again as soon as the trans is warm and the vehicle is
    in park before driving.

  • Its never a bad idea to do a ATF and filter change while
    doing the install

  • It is never a bad idea to add an additional ATF cooler to
    prolong your trans’s life span!!!

2 thoughts on “Torque Convertor Installation”

  1. Will this process work on a 1999 fw drive eclipse? Its a 2.0 non turbo. And if i wind up having to replace the whole transmission can i just drop the transmission or do i have to take the whole motor out?

    1. Yes you can just drop the transmission. It’s the same process as above except I couldn’t get the passenger side Axel to come loose. Had to drop it with the Axel still in. Took some maneuvering but it’ll still come out. Make sure you don’t pry against the input shaft getting it out (one guy made a slide hammer using vice grips to get his out its on YouTube.) It’ll take slight raising and lowering of the Jack on the engine to get it lose. I’d also pull the speed sensor and backup light

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