How to install your new converter by Rezlo

This is a basic list of items you will need:
Assortment of wrenches
Assortment of sockets
Hammer and pry-bar
Jack stands
Jack
ATF "Automatic Transmission Fluid" (I always use OEM  trans fluids)
2X Friends
Case of beer (for afterwards)
One free Saturday or Sunday
 

First thing I would do is take your car off to a car wash with 2 cans of engine cleaner and really clean the engine and trans off as working on a dirty car is never much fun, Once you have it cleaned off check for any obvious leaks that could be fixed during your converter swap and follow the below listed steps. Please if you have a FSM or Haynes or similar manual for your vehicle read their steps as well before beginning to help decide if you are up to the challenge.

• Chalk the rear wheels so the vehicle cant move and crack the front wheel studs loose

• Jack the front up as high as needed so you can move around under the vehicle while on stands. (ALWAYS USE STANDS)

• Disconnect Battery and mark all electrical and trans oil lines on the transmission and remove them

• Disconnect shifter cable

• Place a support under the engine’s oil pan with a block of wood as not to damage it.

• Take the wheel closest to the trans off, disconnect the lower control arm at the knuckle (pop the lower ball joint)

• Carefully pry the drive shaft out the trans, let it hang suspended with wire or straps (dont dislocate the CV joints)

• Unbolt the trans inspection cover underneath, then unbolt the converter off the flex plate (normally 4 bolts, use a power bar on the crank pulley to gently turn the motor to gain access to the other flex plate bolts) note the converter to flex plate clearance once the converter is totally unbolted and pushed back towards the trans (new one should be similar with between 1/8-1/2" clearance before you slide it up to bolt it on)

• Unbolt all but 4 of the trans to engine bolts,

• Crack loose but do not undo the last 4 bolts

• Place the Jack with a block of wood under the trans

• Make sure the engine is still supported on its oil pan

• Unbolt the engine mount holding the trans to the frame

• Undo the last 4 trans to engine bolts

• Carefully pry the other drive shaft out of the trans as you move it away

• Move the trans far enough away from the engine then let it down slow

• Once down get your new converter out of its box and remove the plastic cap

• Pour 1 to 2 quarts of oil into the new converter

• Slide old converter off trans

• Compare new and old converter, they should look near identical

• Make sure there are no oil leaks from the trans seal and rear main seal, if there are replace the seal/s

• Slide new converter onto trans and make sure it seats all the way in like the old unit, may take an attempt or two or turning the converter while applying light pressure

• DO NOT FORCE THE CONVERTER ON OR HIT IT

• The rest is a simple reverse of what was just said.

 Note: 

• If your converter comes with new high-tensile bolts (most do)  DO NOT add lock-tite to the bolts as they already have a special lock-tite coating applied to them.

• If your converter should not come with new bolts make sure the new bolts are not to long as it can destroy the converter they are.

• Make sure to use a Service manual for correct torque specifications of all bolts including flex plate.

• When first starting vehicle make sure to check the ATF fluid level and check it again as soon as the trans is warm and the vehicle is in park before driving.

• Its never a bad idea to do a ATF and filter change while doing the install

• It is never a bad idea to add an additional ATF cooler to prolong your trans’s life span!!!

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